Every city has its own charm. People talk of London, Paris, New York or Beijing because of what they are –unique and special on their own right. What makes these cities tick? Well, they are unique with their own character and beauty unmatched by others. And so is Kota Bharu, the political and cultural capital of Kelantan, the state nicknamed as negeri Che Siti Wan Kembang. Kota Bharu is the heartland of the Malays in Kelantan, known for its food, art and culture. It is also the play ground of the Kelantan ruling class.
People go to Kota Bharu in droves during holiday seasons not to see the high rise buildings and shopping malls, but rather its people and culture. Kota Bharu is a sleepy hollow no more. But still its people are carefree, unlike those in Kuala Lumpur where they have no time to stop and stare. There people do know if you are a new guy in town.
At my age, I don’t have the strength to drive from Kajang to Kota Bharu. In normal days, it takes about 8 hours. It will be more during the festive season such as Hari Raya. So my wife and I took AirAsia flight from KLIA to Kota Bharu. At the airport I rented a car, Perodua Viva, costing RM 90 per day. That was where the trouble started. Not knowingly the car was so small, a far cry from my Volvo and Toyota Camry. With manual transmission, I found it hard to handle. My wife kept nagging all the way from Kota Bharu to Machang. It was just like I explained to you all in my write-up last week, one for the Hari Raya. The story fell flat on my face, but I just kept my cool. I did not let go my steam! I did not want to spoil the otherwise happy occasion.
I was born and bred in Kelantan, but know very little of Kota Bharu itself. It is all because I had moved to the west coast states since I started my secondary education. In Kota Bharu, I am just like any other strangers. I, however, have to be there from time to time as I have my root in the state. I was in Kota Bharu last week en route to Machang where I had to attend the wedding of my niece. Being the patriarch of the family I have to show my face.
At the wedding ceremony we were entertained by the delights of Kelantan, the dikir barat and silat. Dikir barat is immortalized in films and advertisements to showcase the lively Malaysian culture. In the old days, dikir barat was a whole night affair, starting at 10 pm and lasted 5 am. The enthusiasts would spend the whole of the next day sleeping. What a waste?
It was a few days past the Eid Mubarak (Hari Raya) holidays but the mood was still on. In usual Malaysian style, Hari Raya celebration could go for one month. For Muslims, it is our duty to pray at the graveyard of our ancestors during Hari Raya. We pray so that their souls will rest in peace. It was also for this that I went back to my village this time around.
Back to Kota Bharu, I noticed a lot of change in the city’s landscape. It is now promoted as an Islamic city by the PAS-led state government. Here people voted the opposition to take them to heaven. Time will tell if they are right in their choice. In the desire to be at par with the cities in the west coast states, Kota Bharu is being developed. And fast. I wish that its charm and character will remain intact. Development can go without destroying its soul.
If you are in Kota Bharu spend some time at Pasar Khadijah, its crown jewel. It has of late undergone massive renovation. With its exotic design, Pasar Khadijah offers a range of products, from food items to garment to textiles. Fresh fruits and vegetables which are mostly imported from across the border are sold at the sale prices. The market is dominated by women who are mostly in middle age. I tell you, these ladies are good in their trade, being seasoned by difficulties in life. Some of them are widows who keep divorcing their husbands like changing clothes. They are an independent lot. The number of gold chain in their hands indicates how successful they are in their business.
Food is cheap in Kelantan. If you are hungry during lunch time, head towards Yati Ayam Percik Restaurant. With less than RM 50 in hand, you can get white rice topped with the tasty gulai kawah, ayam percik and daging panggang for 4 people. Freshly cooked dishes are available at Sham Restaurant located near the hospital. For nasi kandar lovers, there is one excellent outlet in downtown Kota Bharu. Gosh, it has a good run for your money.
There are many handicraft outlets in the city, selling silverwares and batik shirt. Outsiders, beware! They are in for the bargain. Kelantan is known for its delicately designed kites. One of it, the wau bulan, has been used as an icon by the national carrier, the Malaysian Airlines.
The city provides good accommodation too. If you need one, remember to head towards the 5-star Renaissance Hotel, which is attached to Billion Shopping Mall. With RM 225++ (after discount for government servant) rate it is the best money can buy in town. A room with similar style and service in Brisbane would cost more than RM 1000.
At Merbok I was alone, while in Brisbane my 2 daughters were around. In Renaissance Kota Bharu, I had my wife all to myself. I brought her along just in case, if you know what I mean. You can say that it was a honeymoon of sort. What can that be for a man above 60? Well, you can never tell till you try it! You know what? It will make the difference in a 5-star atmosphere.
Shamshuddin Jusop
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